Soy Steak No More

The European Parliament voted in Strasbourg on Tuesday to ban plant-based foods from calling themselves "steak," "bacon," "chicken," or any other term traditionally associated with meat. "Veggie burger," however, gets to stay.[1]

The regulation defines meat as "the parts of animals suitable for consumption," which rules out "seitan steak," "vegan chicken," "tofu chop," and "meatless liver loaf" for good measure. It also bars the label "meat" from lab-grown and cell-based products. But "burger" and "sausage" are fine. The logic, if there is any, appears to be that a patty between buns is structurally honest enough, while a slice of seitan pretending to be a chop is not.[2]

The vote is a win for livestock farmers, who have argued for years that plant-based products riding on meat terminology confuse consumers and undercut their sector. "This is a victory for our producers, for their expertise and for the clarity owed to consumers," said Celine Imart, a cereal farmer and right-wing French MEP who sponsored the proposal. Austrian Agriculture Minister Norbert Totschnig was more direct: "Where it says meat, there must be meat inside. There are no vegetarian chicken drumsticks."[3]

The compromise was struck in March between EU lawmakers and member states. The original proposal was broader, potentially banning "veggie burger" and "vegan sausage" as well. That version faced pushback from German retailers (Germany is Europe's largest market for plant-based alternatives), environmental groups, consumer advocates, and Paul McCartney, who publicly defended soy steaks and tofu sausages.[4]

The numbers tell their own story. EU consumption of plant-based meat alternatives has grown fivefold since 2011, according to the European Consumer Organisation (BEUC). That growth is driven by concerns over animal welfare, greenhouse gas emissions from livestock, and health arguments. Whatever the EU decides to call these products, people are buying them.[5]

Not everyone is convinced this is about consumer protection. "I see preliminary pseudo-debates, the attempt to protect the meat industry, and to delay societal changes as long as possible," said SPÖ MEP Gunter Sidl. Green delegation leader Thomas Waitz called the ban "a proposal somewhat more inclined towards reason" than the original, but added that he does not believe citizens need protection from accidentally buying a vegan product thinking it is meat.[6]

The regulation still needs formal approval from the Council of Member States. And the debate is not over: the current rules are temporary, valid only until the end of 2027, when they will be revisited as part of the EU's Common Agricultural Policy reform. That gives the meat lobby another shot at banning "veggie burger," and the plant-based industry another chance to argue that nobody has ever confused a soy patty for a beef cutlet.

In the meantime, your veggie burger is safe. Your tofu chop is not. Draw your own conclusions about where the line between consumer protection and protectionism actually falls.